Trust · Reproductions
Originals only.
Reproduction carts and discs are the biggest problem in retro collecting. They're banned here — no exceptions for “it says repro in the description.” This page covers what's allowed, what happens to sellers who break the rule, and how to spot a fake.
The policy
A reproduction is any unlicensed copy made to look like an original game: a cart with a copied ROM on a new or donor board, a burned disc, or a fake label on a real shell. These are not allowed:
- Reproduction or counterfeit cartridges and discs, labeled or not
- Bootlegs, unlicensed “hacks” and translations on cartridge
- Multicarts and flash carts presented or bundled as an original game
- Original shells or boxes paired with a reproduction game inside
- Items described with euphemisms like “reprint,” “aftermarket,” “custom” or “backup copy”
What's allowed
- Licensed re-releases
- Official releases from licensed publishers such as Limited Run Games or Retro-Bit are welcome. They must use the “Licensed re-release” edition so buyers can tell them from original prints.
- Reproduction boxes & manuals — disclosed
- An original game with a reproduction box, manual, case or insert can be listed if each repro part is marked. It can't be called Complete in Box.
- Replaced shells and batteries — disclosed
- A genuine board in a replacement shell, or a replaced save battery, is a modification. List it with the modification selected.
- Original hardware and accessories
- First-party and licensed third-party consoles, controllers and accessories. Unlicensed accessories must be clearly identified as such.
Enforcement
Reported listings are reviewed by our staff. If a listing is confirmed as a reproduction sold as an original:
- 1
First offense: strike
The listing is removed, any affected orders are refunded, and the account gets a strike. Payouts for those orders are not released. - 2
Second offense: permanent ban
The account is permanently closed. Funds still held on the account are applied to refunds owed to affected buyers.
We may skip straight to a ban for deliberate fraud, such as knowingly passing off reproductions in volume.
How to spot a reproduction
No single tell is proof. Look at several together, and when in doubt, ask the seller for a photo of the circuit board before you buy. Genuine sellers of high-value games expect the request.
Anything on cartridge
- Board photos are the best evidence. Original boards carry the manufacturer's name and part numbers, with individual, labeled chips. A single black epoxy “blob” where the chips should be, or a board with no maker markings, is a strong sign of a fake.
- Label print quality. Fakes are often blurry, pixelated, oversaturated or too glossy, with colors that don't match known originals. Check for misspellings and missing ® or ™ marks.
- Screws. Nintendo carts use security screws (gamebit or tri-wing depending on the system). A standard Phillips screw means the cart has been opened — sometimes for a legitimate battery swap, often not.
- Shell details. Compare the plastic color, texture, molded text and seam fit against a known-good copy. Shells that are too shiny, the wrong shade, or have soft molded lettering deserve a closer look.
- Weight. Reproductions often use fewer or smaller chips and cheaper plastic, so they can feel noticeably lighter than a known original.
- Price and quantity. Multiple “mint” copies of a rare game from one seller, priced well under market, is a red flag.
Game Boy, Game Boy Color & Game Boy Advance Pokémon
These are the most-faked games in the hobby. Check:
- The board says Nintendo and has separate chips — not a single epoxy blob. Battery-backed titles should have a visible coin-cell battery.
- GBA carts: genuine front labels have a small number stamped into the label (it presses into the sticker rather than being printed on it). Fakes usually lack it or print it flat.
- GBA Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald use a battery for the in-game clock; many fakes don't, and they often fail or show clock errors.
- Back labels on fakes are often missing, generic, or printed with the wrong codes and fonts.
Super Nintendo
- Many SNES repros are built inside real donor carts, so the shell alone proves little. The board type and chips should match that specific game — ask for a board photo on any expensive RPG.
- Watch for labels that are slightly the wrong size, sit crooked, or are glossier than the rest of the cart.
Nintendo 64
- Genuine boards carry Nintendo markings and part numbers with labeled chips; repros commonly use generic flash chips or epoxy blobs.
- Compare label color and finish against a known original — fakes are often too dark or saturated, with soft text and missing trademark symbols.
- Check the back label for correct product codes and a clean print.
Buying something you're unsure about?
Message the seller through the listing before you buy and ask for a board photo or extra angles. After delivery, you have 30 days to open a reproduction claim — see buyer protection.
How to report a listing
- 1
Open the listing
Any active listing can be reported, whether or not you've bought it. - 2
Choose “Report” and select “Reproduction”
Add what you noticed — a label detail, a screw, a missing board photo. Specifics help our review. - 3
We review it
Staff review reported listings and may ask the seller for more photos. High-value listings can be paused while we look.
Already received a reproduction? Don't just report it — open a claim from Dashboard → Purchases so your refund is handled.